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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic triumph.